About
117 seamiles from Athens / Piraeus
23 seamiles from Kos
97 qkm (the whole archipel 114 qkm)
about 1300 inhabitants
482 m highest mountain
4 villages (Astypalaia, Livadi, Analipsi,
Vathi)
Description of the island
Until the 19th century, Chora was
the only settlement of the contemporary years of
Astypalaia. The other settlements which exist today
were created in the uncultivated spots of the
island.
The biggest of these settlements are Livadi and
Analypsi or Maltezana, created during the Italian
years. Most of the island’s life is
concentrated in Chora. It is built on a peninsula
which is bathed by the serene sea creating two
tranquil bays called Pera Yalos which is situated
on the left as we look at the open sea and Livadi
which is on the right. The Venetian Castle, with
its two whitewashed churches, stands proudly at the
top of the peninsula proclaiming the onset of the
development of the settlement.
As the centuries progressed, little white houses
began to appear outside the walls of the castle
which covered the hill and reached the port of Pera
Yalos joining together to form a mosaic of our
island’s history. The portrait of Chora with
its white body and ocean blue heart, leaves the
visitor speechless because of, its beauty and
harmony.
The Castle takes up all the plateau at the top of
the hill and used to be densely built group of
houses which made up the Middle Ages settlement.
Today, only a few of the houses have survived, the
outside walls of which make up the walls of the
Castle.
Only on the southside is there a strong battle
tower which is known by the name "Serai". Inside
the Castle, between the scattered columns and the
carved stones, two beautiful churches, Panagia of
Castro (the Holy Virgin of the Castle) and Agios
Giorgios (Saint George) stand. The church of
Panagia of Castro was built in 1853 on the arched
entrance of the castle. Inside there is an
ownership signature of 1413 and the shields of the
Querini family. Agios Giorgios was built in 1790.
Around the walls of the Castle the uniform white
houses, with blue stutters and wooden balconies,
the churches and all the small family temples are
clustered together.
The balance of white and blue is cut of by the red
shade of geraniums which blossom in the pots of the
narrow, stone-cobbled lanes. In the old
neighborhoods of Chora, there are no great-open
spaces, no squares. The Astypalaian traditional
houses are similar to those of the Cyclades.
Moreover, the cycladic colour seems as though it
surpasses the dodecanese colour around the island.
The most interesting part of the house other than
the fireplace and the divisions of the walls, is
the wooden loft in the far part of the room
decorated with lace, woodwork, which was used as a
bed. It has a height about two meters and to reach
it, one must climb a ladder which is formed by
three wooden trunks, one placed on top of the
other. Next to the bed, three or four rows of
carved, wooden shelves make up the "Krijola", on
which are kept the most beautiful and the best
glassware of the housewife.
The wooden ornamentation of the bed, the Krijola,
the door and window cases and the ceiling is a
sample of the excellent wood-carving craftsmanship
which developed in Astypalaia.
One of the most characteristic pieces of work of
this art is the carved, wooden ceiling of one of
the houses inside the castle; the only one which
has been saved today.The special ornamentation of
Chora is its eight preserved windmills along the
turning of the hill from which the new houses
(suitable to the surroundings) decline towards the
port. Near the windmills, the traditional
café of Chora is found and a bit further up
is the Mayor’s office from where the two main
roads begin their ascent towards the castle.
Each leads to a noteworthy church: the monastery
of Panagia Portaitissa, which is on the side of
Livadi, and the Megali Panagia, which is on the
side of Pera Yalos.
Megali Panagia is formed by a group of five
temples which, having a view of the sea, create a
unique picture. The special feature of this church
is its cobble-stoned courtyard. Panagia Portaitissa
makes up the religious center of the island with
the largest amount of homage. It began being built
in 1762 by the blind Osios Anthimos from Cephalonia
who before building Panagia Portaitissa, has built
the monasteries of Zoouthochou Pigis at Sikinos and
Saint George at Castellorizo . The construction of
the church lasted nine years during which the
tradition has it that many miracles occurred. It is
dedicated to Panagia Portaitissa of the monastery
Iviron, a copy of whose icon Osios Anthimos brought
to Astypalaia. On the 15th August when the
celebration of Portaitissa is held, there is a
grand festival with violins and utes. Near the
monastery the ecclesiastic museum of Astypalaia is
on display with rare heirlooms of unique
craftsmanship.
The rippled coastline of Astypalaia is nothing
more than a constant game between the land and the
sea. In about the middle of the island, the land
narrows so much that a strip of land, only 100
meters in width, connects the two parts.
Steno, as the local townspeople refer to it,
divides Astypalaia into the eastern part known as
the "Inner Island" and the western part known as
the "Outer Island". The concrete road towards the
"Inner Island" stretches past the successive
beaches "Marmaria", "Steno", "Plakis" and the "Blue
Limanaki" until it reaches Analypsi or Maltezana
after a total of 9 Km. Just a little before the
town, a fork in the road leads to the airport of
the island (10 Kilometers from Chora). Analypsi is
one of the three towns of Astypalaia. It is also
called "Maltezana" because it was first settled by
Maltese pirates.
The town, which is usually made up of mainly
summer holiday visitors, embraces the bay with its
long dock where fishing boats come round and
includes the orchards and vineyards of ascends
through the steep mountains of this side of the
island, offering a panoramic view of Vai bay, and
ends up at the closed bay of Vathi.
At the serene site of Mesa Vathi, a beautiful
church, a tavern, a few houses, and a few fishing
boats at the small dock can be seen. The visitor
can reach Vathi either from the passable dirt road
or by the boat which conducts frequent trips from
Vai.
Vai can be reached by the bus which leaves from
Chora.
Before the road to Vathi begins, a difficult dirt
road ends up at the monastery of Panagia
Poulariani.
Returning to the "Outer Island" and after Steno, a
dirt road begins which leads to the small port of
San Andreas (1 Kilometer) where a small tavern can
be found.
Another route from Chora runs through the
mountains of the Inner Island whose curves are
smooth.
The panoramic views of Chora and Livadi at the
outset and the view of the tranquil mountains with
the scattered, white monasteries offers a unique
pleasure to the viewer. On this same route is the
monastery of Flevariotissa.
Since the monastery of Flevariotissa's festival is
celebrated on the 2nd February, it is the winter
rendezvous of Astypalaia’s friends from all
over the world. This route comes to an end in the
area called Agios Ioannis (Saint John) which is 16
kilometers away. The picturesque, whitewashed
church is set between two abrupt hill slopes near
the open sea.
In front of the church, on the hill, there are
orchards and bubbling water sources and, further
down, after quite a bit of walking, there is a
superb beach.
On the right of the church, high on the edge of
the mountain, there are the remains of the old
castle.
Near Chora is the village of Livadi which is the
blossoming garden of the island.
The orchards, which are overflowing with tangerine
trees and orange trees, the vineyards, which are
seething with their juicy grapes, and the houses
which are surrounded by numerous, multi-colored
flowers, stretch throughout the ravine and wind up
at the beautiful beach. From Livadi, a passable
dirt road begins which provides a truly
breathtaking view of Chora and connects Tzanakis,
the cut off nudist beach, to Chora; and, after
passing a number of small coves and Papou beach, it
ends up at the enticing, sandy beach of Agios
Konstantinos.
Two of the most beautiful beaches of the island
can be reached by the tourist boats which set off
from Pera Yalos and Maltezana. These beaches are
Kaminakia, where there is a tavern which serves
boiled goat (stew), an island speciality, and
Vatses, where there is a cave with stalactites and
stalagmites.